1 Week in Amsterdam 9/15-9/22/2018 Part 3 - 4.5 Forks

Bird Thais  Zeedijk 72-74, 1012 BA Amsterdam                                                                      4.5 Forks

Who knew there would be delicious Thai food in the middle of the Red Light District?  But there is!  This place was super crowded with tourists and locals alike but it's definitely worth waiting for - especially if you've been eating kind of mediocre Dutch food for the past few days.   My usual go to food when I get home from any work or personal trip is a visit to my local Thai place, so this was a nice early detour to get some much needed Asian flavors and spices into my system.

The menu is extremely extensive and has all the usual suspects but they also have a lot of unique dishes too.  I opted to go for a red curry with squid (16 euros) and Farzana got a lychee curry.  We started with some fish cakes for the table, which were super tasty and some chicken thighs wrapped in bamboo leaves which were great too.  My squid curry was excellent - spicy but not to the point where you can't taste anything.  The squid was also prepared nicely and had a nice bite to it.  The usual blandness of the squid absorbed all the flavors of the red curry really well.  I tried the lychee curry and you know what?  It was actually really tasty - it was the perfect balance of sweetness and saltiness.  I wonder why more places don't play with these two flavors more?

Sadly the only bummer of the night was that they ran out of mango sticky rice for dessert.  I saw another table get it and it looked amazing.  Waa Waa.  This place was definitely a great find and highly recommended if you're looking for a reprise from the chicken and potatoes that you usually find in Dutch restaurants.

Photo Credit:  Yelp

Water and Brood  Nieuwe Kerkstraat 84, 1018 EC Amsterdam                                                3 Forks

I'll give this place props and say that it's super cute and very Instagram worthy - which seems to be very important to restaurants these days.  It looks like the kind of place where a lot of students go to hang out or study but it is tiny so I wouldn't recommend going relax and chill out with a cup of coffee.  The staff is incredibly sweet here so the only bummer is that the dish that I ordered wasn't especially delicious (although now I see that they have taken it off the menu on their website, so maybe they knew that too). 

The menu is a combination of sandwiches, burgers and all day brunch-y food like omelet's and breakfast burritos.  For some reason, the Philly Cheesesteak was calling my name. I know, how good could a traditional American sandwich be in Amsterdam but I had to try it out. 

The steak wasn't thin stripes like in a traditional Philly way, but more like chopped up cubes of meat  and there wasn't enough melted cheese to it.  On top of that, the bread was med and dry.  Overall, I took a risk and that risk didn't pay off.  I took a small bite out of Farzana's omelet and it was pretty tasty - so I guess the lesson to be learned here is that you should stick to the basics in a cafe in Amsterdam and leave the cheesesteaks to the guys in Philly.  Total bill:  30 euros

Photo Credit:  Yelp

Day Trip to Modena Visited 9/5/2018 3-4.5 Forks

Hosteria Giusti  Via Farini 75, 41100 Modena, Italy                                                                 4.5 Forks

I will fully admit that I was a total sucker for all the foodie scenes in Master of None (second season).  And yes, I made a special trip to come to Hosteria Giusti based on that first episode where Aziz goes and eats at this adorable and magical place that only has 4 tables and is behind a salumeria.  If there was any place I wanted to go to more than any place on this trip, this was it.  And it did not disappoint in the least bit. 

The place is exactly how it's presented in the show - gorgeous exterior store front, cute but tiny deli and then you walk through the meats and cheeses to a small room with 4 tables where you will dine on the most amazing food.  I was shocked that the place wasn't sold out - maybe because it was random weekday in September?  In any case, the waitress was super super sweet and walked us through the menu.  There are about 4 appetizers, 4 pastas, 4 entrees and 4 desserts to choose from.  Everyone online raved about the fried dumpling with cold cuts (12 euros) and when we said that Aarti was a vegetarian the waitress kindly said they could make a cheese version instead.  Why not?   Will and I split the pork cheek pasta (18 euros), duck pasta (18 euros) and suckling pig in room temperature with onions and aged balsamic vinegar entree (26 euros).  It's a little pricey compared to a lot of the meals we were having but I guess all this press as allowed them to really charge a premium. 

I know the fried dumplings with cold cuts sounds weird but believe me when I say it's amazing.  The dough is like a fluffy pocket and it's pulled right from the fryer because it's super hot and then they layer on delicious and fatty sliced charcuterie.  They really do a disservice when they call it cold cuts because most people would envision these gross slices of deli meat but these were mouth watering, elegant local delicacies.  The cheese was also outstanding because the cheese was practically melting on top when we got it.  As for the pastas, they were also fantastic.  The pork cheek one came in a red sauce with thick chewy pasta called strozzapreti.  The sauce was spot on but the dish could have used some more meat to it.  The duck pasta was my favorite- perfectly cooked served on a bed of al dente thin sheets of macaroni.  It's definitely not your Kraft macaroni.  

The one slight disappointment was the sucking pig.  Yes, I know it said it was at room temperature on the menu but it still seemed a bit cold. But the onion sauce was incredible and made up for the cold pig.  

While I didn't give this place 5 forks, it was definitely a highlight of the trip and well worth the extra planning.  Modena is a cute, small town that is super close to Bologna (1 hr by train) and is definitely off the beaten path.  So much so that it was a bit boring in that there aren't really any sights to see and we kind of ended up walking around aimlessly.  Note, this place is only open for lunch, so definitely make a reservation early!  Total bill: $156 for 3 people with tax and tip

Franceschetta 58 Via Vignolese 58, 41124 Modena, Italy                                                            3 Forks

Ugh, this review breaks my heart because it had potential to be a real winner.  Obviously, when I knew we were going to Modena, I tried to get a reservation at Osteria Francescana, the #1 restaurant in the world.  But sadly, even after waking up at 4am to try to get seats, we couldn't snag any reservations.  So we did what most people do when they can't get in and got a reservation at it's sister restaurant Franceschetta 58 instead.  Financially, it's probably for the best since Osteria Francescana is like 400 euros a person.  As much as I love food, it's really hard to justify spending that kind of money in one sitting.   

Franceschetta 58 is in a really random part of Modena, almost in the suburbs.  We walked there and it was fine but it's definitely a trek.  Upon walking in, you realize that EVERYONE there is a tourist (not surprising).  It felt like I was eating in America.  Also a bit displeasing was that the decor was super modern and not very Italian feeling - again, I felt like I was eating at some fancy bistro in NYC.  But the good news is that prices are much more reasonable - nothing was more than 16 euros. I got the famous burger (9 euros) and the grouper as an entree (16 euros).  

The burger is a slider served in a cardboard box and it's actually really tasty.  In fact it was the best thing I had from the menu.  It was moist and had a tangy green and brown BBQ like sauce to it.   I believe the regular order comes with 2 burgers but you can get just 1.  As for my entree, my grouper came with a yellow tomato puree, eggplant, olive juice and sage.  The fish was tender and the skin nice and crispy.  It was a fine dish but nothing super memorable.  Unfortunately, everyone else felt like their food was meh.  The pasta Aarti had was super hard and was surprisingly the one place where we didn't enjoy the pasta. 

But where this place really suffered as the service.  It was slow AF.  I read about how slow it was online and I got nervous when I realized that our reservation was at 8:30 and the last train back to Bologna was at midnight.  You'd think a 3 1/2 hr window was enough time but it really wasn't.  In fact, we got so nervous about the time that we finally gave up and had them call us a car to drive us back to Bologna because there was no way we would have made it back to the train station in time.  Plus by the time 11pm rolled around, we were just tired and weren't enjoying ourselves anymore.  

I'm still glad we went, even though I wouldn't recommend it as a place to go out of your way to.  Maybe it's better for lunch when you won't feel so rushed to get back to the train station or at the very least book an early dinner reservation so that you're not on pins and needles like we were.   Total bill for 5:  $225 with tax and tip

Photo Credit:  Yelp

48 Hours in Bologna Visited 9/4-9/6/2018 4-5 Forks

Salumeria Simoni   Via Pescherie Vecchie 3B, 40124 Bologna, Italy                                       4.5 Forks

Bologna is one of my most favorite cities in Italy - it's slightly off the beaten path from all the touristy places but is hands down the culinary capital of the country in my book.  The food there is second to none and way more affordable.  I was here in 2016 and fell in love with the city and was excited to be back even if it was just for a short stint. 

As soon as we got off the train, we made a beeline for this salumeria.  It's right in the center of town along with a bunch of other salumeria.  I was really bummed last time I was here to not have gone to one, so I made it my priority to check one out this time. 

If you like cheese, meat and Lambrusco, you will be in heaven.  We got the Board Royale (18 euros) and also a bunch of other side meats and cheeses along with a bunch of freshly baked focaccia bread.  As you can see from the picture, the food did not disappoint.  The meats were sliced thinly and cured to perfection.  The cheese were a combination of sharp hard cheeses and some stinky blue served with jam.  I could eat this all day long.  Plus the waiter was super sweet and really nice - it made for a really enjoyable lunch. 

The only downside of a place that only serves charcuterie and cheese boards is that you have to eat a lot of it to get full (which we did) and sometimes it is also nice to have some greens (they do have a small salad but it's really not enough).  This is a great place for lunch or an afternoon snack but probably not for dinner.   Another plus to this place is that it's shockingly affordable for the amount of food we ate.  Total bill: $66 for 5 people and tax and tip

Cremeria Funivia  Piazza Cavour 1D, 40124 Bologna, Italy                                                        5 Forks

I can't even begin to explain how amazing this place is.  Hands down the best gelato of the whole trip.  I usually wouldn't review a gelato place but (A) it's Italy, so I feel like it's my duty to report on amazing gelato places and (B) this place is beyond anything I've had before.  Even our adorable Airbnb host, who barely spoke any English, she pulled out a map and circled this place immediately and said it was a must visit.  We managed to squeeze it in twice in 2 days and would have gone a 3rd time if we could have. 

There is always a line but it moves fast.  It's a mix of locals and tourists jamming up the place but everyone has these really big smiles on their faces when they are there.   All the flavors are super natural but still creative.  The first time I went I got a granita, which is basically like a slushie or Italian ice.  I got the grapefruit and lemon ice and it was amazing.  Super refreshing and very tart - I can see how this is the perfect snack on a hot summer day.  

The next time we went, I stuck with gelato and got the yogurt flavor mixed with the dark chocolate flavor.  OMG, mind blowing.  The consistency was nice and thick, like a soft serve and the yogurt was super tart but cut perfectly with the chocolate.  The chocolate tasted exactly like chocolate pudding.  I was craving this so badly the next day but we didn't have time for it.  I swear, there is crack in it or something that is super addictive as I couldn't get it out of my mind all day.  If you are in Bologna this place is an absolute must visit.  

Photo Credit:  Yelp

Da Cesari  Via dè Carbonesi 8, 40123 Bologna, Italy                                                                  4 Forks

Most of the team was exhausted and full from lunch and a gelato run but Aarti and I decided to live it up and still go out to dinner.  I mean, it's almost a sin to be in Italy and not be eating 3 full meals a day.  We checked out this place near our Airbnb and it was adorable.  Super traditional place with really sweet waiters. 

We started with a green salad, which at 5 euros we felt was a bit overpriced for what it was.  But the pasta experience made up for it.  The famous dish in Bologna besides bolognese is the tortellini in brodo.  I hadn't had it last time I was in Bologna, so I felt like it was my duty to get it here.  If you're not starving, it's the perfect pasta dish for you.  The beef broth was light but flavorful and the small pieces of tortellini were stuffed to perfection.  Perfect bites of pasta with ham, mortadella, parm and nutmeg encased in a soft pasta shell.  Aarti got the pumpkin ravioli which was a sweet and buttery delight.  The menu had so many other amazing sounding dishes but we just couldn't bring ourselves to eat anymore.  While the food, wine and service were great, it was a tad bit more expensive than most of the places we went to in Italy (but still super cheap compared to NYC prices).  Total bill $66 for 2 people with tax and tip

Photo Credit:  Yelp

Da Nello  Via Monte Grappa 2, 40100 Bologna, Italy                                                                  4 Forks

We spent most of this day on this epic Italian food tour, complete with a parmesan cheese factory tour, parma ham factor tour and balsamic vinegar tour and topped with a 3 hour lunch on a Tuscan hill top.  So we clearly weren't starving for dinner.  But again, when in Italy, you have to take advantage.  Nat had gone here the night before with a friend and had such a good meal that she wanted to go again. 

Since I had eaten my body weight in cheese, meat and pasta for lunch, I kept it very light and got the barley soup and the roast beef carpaccio.  I know it sounds like kind of a lame and a weird combination but it was all really very good.  I felt like I had to get off the pasta bandwagon for a bit but the soup was very hearty and carb-y but in a different way.  The carpaccio was lovely - thinly sliced and served simply with a squeeze of lemon and salt/pepper.  Nat got the porcini risotto which was excellent.  The mushrooms were meaty and earthy in flavor. 

The service was a bit gruff but in the end they were nice enough.  It felt like a pretty local place as it was filled mostly with Italians and you could tell that the waitstaff didn't love speaking in English, but I can't really blame them for that.  Total bill:  $136 for 3 people with tax and tip

Photo Credit:  Yelp

72 Hours in Florence, Italy Part 2, Visited 9/1 - 9/3/2018 2.5 - 4.5 Forks

All'Antico Vinaio  Via dei Neri 74R, 50122 Florence, Italy                                                         3 Forks

I'm so confused - this place gets super high reviews and the lines are ridiculously long so you would think it would be an amazing sandwich.  But honestly it was just ok.  The place is so famous that there are two of the exact same places across the street from each other to accommodate all the tourists - and yes, everyone in line is a tourist.  They're known for their giant sandwiches filled with local meats and cheeses and they all sound amazing.  There is a menu outside in Italian and English - there are only 5 sandwiches to choose from so it's pretty easy to figure out what you want quickly.  The great thing about the sandwich is that it's only 5 euros each which is a steal of the amount of food you're getting. 

The bad news is that I didn't think it warrants waiting in line like a dodo.  I got the Summer sandwich which is a traditional prosciutto, mozzarella, tomato and basil in between two huge pieces of focaccia bread the size of my head.  I will say that the tomatoes and basil were amazing - the best part of the sandwich.  The tomatoes were super ripe and juicy and the basil was incredibly fresh.  It makes you realize why Italians use so much of these delicious ingredients in their food.   Unfortunately, the prosciutto was super super salty and there was way too much bread.  I tried my best but in the end I ended up feeding the local birds a lot of my lunch.  It was worth the try and for 5 euros, I'd say it's definitely a good deal but I would just wait until there aren't a lot of people in line (not sure if that is ever the case?).

Casa Toscana  Via Giovanni Da Verrazzano 3R, 50122 Florence, Italy                                    4.5 Forks

This place is truly a hidden gem.  It was recommended by our Airbnb host and it did not disappoint.  Even though we made a reservation the place was completely empty, which I would normally think is a bad sign but it wasn't at all here.

The menu is described as true Tuscan food, so it's really simple and natural food.  Everything sounded amazing and we ordered a ton of food - so much so that our tiny Italian waitress literally said to us "You're ordering way too much food!"  No wonder everyone in Europe thinks Americans are fat.  But whatever, we were on vacation.  Everyone got a fresh salad to start, then we all split the rigatoni with sausage, spicy penne, beef stew pasta (because you just can't get enough pasta in Italy), vegetable risotto, meatballs in a fantastic red sauce, fava beans (which Tuscany is famous for), spinach (because we need something green) and last but not least the famous Bistecca Fiorentina (it's essentially a giant T-bone steak).   I felt like it wouldn't be right to be in Florence and not have the famous steak as least once. 

Everything was wonderful and the steak was perfectly cooked with giant salt crystals sprinkled on top of it.  The pastas were all wonderful and cooked perfectly al dente.  We washed everything down with a deeply flavorful Chianti - truly heaven.  Since there wasn't anyone else at the restaurant (except for this random couple who we couldn't figure out if they were on a date or having an affair with each other), we were able to hang out leisurely and really enjoy the whole dinner experience.  This place was even some of the folks' favorite restaurant of the trip...It wasn't my favorite but it was definitely highly ranked.   It's crazy to think that we had all of this incredible food for $31/pp.  Unheard of and if this place existed in NYC, I would definitely be a regular there. 

Forno Brunori  Borgo Pinti 16 R, 50121 Florence, Italy                                                           4.5 Forks

OBSESSION.  This place is truly one of a kind - it feels like one of those really authentic local bakeries that are slowly disappearing from the city.   While it's not really a bakery bakery where they sell cakes and pastries, instead they sell something much better.  It's these small heavenly mini breads topped with all kinds of savory toppings.  I'm not sure if the locals eat these for breakfast or a snack but we decided since we were on vacation we would eat mini pizzas for breakfast.  Ha!  

The toppings range from porcini mushrooms (my favorite), broccoli, tomato sauce and fresh mozz, red peppers, and sausage.  I can't remember but there was one topping that was not a fan favorite but overall, they were all incredible.  They're each $.60 so you can order one of everything and still not even break $5.  The bread is perfectly soft and the right amount of salty.   We got lucky and happened to have gone one morning when the adorable owner was taking a bunch out of the oven so they were super fresh. 

Definitely go there early because we were so addicted that we went the next day and they only had a few choices left.  As I mentioned the woman behind the counter is so sweet and while her English isn't perfect, she really tries hard to help you.  It's places like this that remind me why it's important to support local small businesses and to keep cities full of original stores and restaurants because it's truly what makes a city unique.  

Ristorante Natalino  Borgo Albizi 17R, 50122 Florence, Italy                                                  2.5 Forks

This was our one epic meal fail of our entire trip.   We had just came back from a day trip to Siena (I'll post about that later) and were exhausted.  It was late and we hadn't done any research nor in the mood to really look up places to eat.  So we picked what was honestly what just open for dinner at 10pm and within walking distance.  It's funny because usually there is a stereotype that Europeans eat really late and in many countries they do but in Florence it wasn't really the case.  A lot of places were closing for dinner by 10pm. 

As I started doing a bit of research for this review,  I was shocked at how many good reviews there were on this place on Yelp.  It reaffirms my belief that everything on there needs to be taken with a huge grain of salt because there is no way in hell I would give this place 4.5 starts.  I'll cut it some slack by saying that it was late and I'm sure the waitstaff was not thrilled to see us walk in.  But whatever, it's still their job to provide great service and food.

The food was panned by everyone in the group.  My spinach "salad" was literally a bunch of spinach that they dumped out of a box or bag into a bowl.  That's it.  No dressing, no squeeze of lemon, no other veggies, just a pile of naked spinach.  My actual meal of the meat lasagna was fine - nothing to write home about but not as bad as some of the group's other dishes.  Kinney's chicken was super dry and boring and Aarti was not a fan of the eggplant parm or the gnocchi.

I know that not every meal in Italy was going to be a winner so I can't be too bummed out but it did prove me wrong in the sense that I alway said that there are no bad meals in Italy.  Total bill:  $135 for 5 people with tax and tip

Photo Credit:  Yelp

72 Hours in Florence, Italy Part 1, Visited 9/1 - 9/3/2018 3 - 4.5 Forks

Trattoria San Pierino Via dell'Oriuolo 18R, 50124 Florence, Italy                                            3.5 Forks

Yes, Florence is super touristy but if you have never been to Italy before it is a must visit.  It's beautiful, full of art and culture and has great shopping.  It's not really known for it's amazing food but there are definitely great places to be had if you do some research or ask around.  We arrived in Florence by train and took a twisty cab ride to our lovely Airbnb, which had a nice outdoor terrace and was located within walking distance to everything but away from the madness of everything. 

After we dropped our stuff off, we were starving and our nice host recommend a restaurant near the Duomo that she said was owned by her friend.  It's indeed super close to the city center but it still felt local.  We were all still reeling from our pasta/veal/risotto overload from the night before, so we all started with a starter salad and I went even more healthy and got the octopus "salad".  Aarti got a ravioli, Will got the pasta with clams and prawns and Kinney got the pasta with tomato and anchovies (Sorry, Nat, I didn't write down what you got!).  The starter salad was perfect - served with fresh bib lettuce, juicy tomatoes, fennel and carrots.  I like that they gave it to us naked but with simple bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar for us to use.  That's how a salad should be - I'm not a fan of restaurant salads that are pre-dressed because they're usually overly dressed.  I thought my octopus salad was going to be like what I had in Croatia which was sliced with olive oil but this was super chopped up pieces mixed with potatoes and drenched in garlic and oil.  It wasn't bad, in fact is was relatively light despite how I described it but it just wasn't what I thought.  It was still delicious and relatively healthy. 

I love how in Italy no one rushes you and everyone just sits around drinking endless amounts of wine.  We did just that and it was a great kick off to Florence.  It wasn't my favorite meal but it wasn't a bad one either.   Total bill: $145 USD for 5 people with tax and tip

Photo Credit:  Yelp

Vini e Vecchi Sapori  Via dei Magazzini 3R 50122 Florence, Italy                                          4.5 Forks

This was one place in Florence that I really really wanted to try and made a reservation way in advance.  I'd recommend you do the same as when we got there, there was a sign that said "Complete" and the place was super packed to the gills.  Even though we had a reservation, we still had to wait a good 30 mins for our table (which they were super apologetic and nice about).  But it was worth the wait.

The restaurant is rustic, cozy and a combination of locals and tourists.  The waiters are super nice and I took a quick peek in the kitchen and there is a legit Italian grandma making pasta in the back.  The menu is hand written on a piece of paper outside the restaurant but they also have copies for you at the table.  We started with an arugula salad with crazy good salty local shaved parm (I mean we are near Parma) on it and a sliced zucchini salad with lemon and olive oil.  So simple but so delicious at the same time that we ordered a 2nd one.  Nat and I both got the duck ragu tagliatelle which was perfection.  The ribbons of pasta were perfectly al dente and the ragu was salty but not overly done.  Aarti got a thick tube pasta with zucchini flowers and a light cream sauce, Will got the lamb chop while Kinney got the beef fillet.  Everyone had nothing but fantastic things to say about their food.

Of course, we couldn't leave without dessert, so we got a tiramisu (which was heavy on the ricotta and had raspberries and strawberries in it) and a mille-feuille with gelato inside.  Both were sweet and not too heavy and a perfect way to end our meal.  As usual, we had some fantastic red wine, this time a reserva Chianti.  This place was a definite winner in my book and was one of our top meals on our trip.  Total bill: $226 USD for 5 people with tax and tip

Photo Credit:  Yelp

Hwa Yuan Visited 8/4/2018 4.5 Forks

Hwa Yuan  42 E Broadway, New York, NY 10002

I'm usually not a huge fan of "nice" Chinese restaurants - I've always had a soft spot of the mom and pop places where they scream at you and there is like a bed in the bathroom.  But I'll admit, that sometimes they are kind of dirty and can gross me out.  So when I read about this luxurious Chinatown legend making a comeback earlier this year, I had to try it out. 

When you step in, you can automatically tell that it's different from most of the Chinatown places.  First, it's super clean, quiet and has fancy white tablecloths.  It's got a very elegant Western feel to it with a few Asian influences injected in the decor.  The crowd was mostly non-Asians and the GM is an older white guy, so you know it's fancy.  All of that made me a bit nervous that the food wasn't going to be great or that it was going to be Americanized and with the exception of one dish, the food was outstanding.   We started with a whole Peking Duck ($65), sautéed pea shoots ($18), jellyfish ($18), baked black cod ($38) and soup dumplings ($10).  As you can tell from the prices, it's definitely much more expensive than your typical Chinatown joint but the quality and cleanliness is so much higher.

The duck was delicious and they carve it at your table.  They bring the whole duck (head on) to show you, which is honestly a bit much, even for me.  It looked a bit skinny when they first brought it out but it was lean with the right amount of fat to it and the skin was really good.  The best part of the meal was actually when my dad asked if they could turn the bones and left overs into a soup.  They just combined it with some broth, veggie and tofu but it was really fantastic.  The sautéed pea shoots and soup dumplings were both tasty and delicious - standard Chinese fare but so damn good.  But the star of the night for me was the jellyfish dish.  It was so good - fresh with the right amount of crunch and tang of vinegar.   I could have ordered 3 more of them and eaten it on my own.  Sadly the one let down of the night was the black cod.  Usually I get a whole fish when I'm at Chinese restaurants (and with people who would eat it with me) but we decided to go cod filet and it was such bad dish, especially for the price.  It was like a total Westernized dish - a small piece of cod fillet marinated in soy and mirin.  It was overcooked and under-marinated - terrible combination. 

Overall, it was such a pleasant surprise and definitely reminded me that you don't have to settle for gross restaurants to get good authentic food - but you will have to pay up for it.  The staff was super nice and I know I kind of gave crap about it being a bit stuffy but it was a nice change of pace.  I wouldn't say I would come here everyday because of the prices but I can definitely seem myself taking my parents here when they are in town. 

Photo Credit:  Yelp

1 Week in Sweden - Part 4 - Visited 6/30/2018 - 7/8/2018 3.5 - 4.5 Forks

Fotografiksa Stadsgårdshamnen 22, 116 45 Stockholm, Sweden                                              4.5 Forks

Unfortunately, we had a bit of a train snafu in Gothenburg, so we were sprinting to our dinner reservation at Fotografiska.  Luckily, they still let us in at 9:45pm even we were 30 minutes late.  Fotografiska is primarily a really cool photography museum that just happens to have an equally cool restaurant and cafe upstairs.  You need to make a reservation in advance but it's totally worth it as the views and sunset are absolutely stunning - which was 11pm when we were there. 

The menu is all plant focused - meaning the only meat is a side protein dish and it costs extra.  The menu is a pre-fixe meal that's broken down into their  "favorites" (4 dishes) for 540 SEK ($59 USD) and then you can add "cold" dishes (3 dishes) for 135 SEK ($15 USD) or "warm" dishes (4 dishes) also for 135 SEK.  There's also "tonight's side" which is a animal protein for 145 SEK or $16 USD and a cheese plate option for 55 SEK or $6 USD.   Since it was late, we opted to just get the favorites, which turned out to be more than enough food. 

I want to first say the the food is simply stunning to look at.  I don't know if it was the sunset that was skewing everything but the food all looked like it belonged in a straight out of food magazine or something.  We started with amazing sugar snap peas that were incredibly fresh, super green in color and tasted like they just came from the farm.  The restaurant is the epitome of farm to table - they have very close relationships with local farmers and growers and you can tell.  Next were raw carrots ripped straight from the ground and served with onion dip and fried shallots.  I usually hate raw carrots but there was something so compelling about these that I had to try them and they were pretty good - I still didn't love them but it was worth trying.  Next came the potatoes done 3 ways - pickled, boiled and fried and served with smoked sour cream and fish roe.  Amazing - who doesn't love potatoes?! Then coupled with the smoked sour cream and roe, it was really perfectly executed.  Lastly we had baked onion with mushroom, truffle cream and artichoke chips.   The sign of a great vegetarian meal is when you don't miss meat and all these dishes did that.  We ended the meal with strawberries with flan which was delicious and a chocolate brownie, which was the only meh dish of the night.  

By the time we were done, it was well past midnight.  Originally we had wanted to walk around the museum but it was so late.  The museum was actually still open - it was open until 2am, which if you can stay up that late, it's super cool and slightly creepy to walk around the museum at that hour.  Our super nice waitress gave us a "tip" and said there was a different elevator that drops you off inside the museum and she wouldn't say anything.   Wink wink.  We got to see the entire museum and we weren't the only ones there late at night.   

Even though our day started off with a super bummer, it ended in the best way.  This was definitely a highlight for me and thanks to Lav for lovely birthday dinner!

Creperie and Logi Wallers Plats 3, 621 56 Visby, Sweden                                                        3.5 Forks

We ended our Swedish adventures on a lovely island 1 hour away from Stockholm called Gotland - it's where the locals go for the summer...I guess it's sort of like their version of the Hamptons or Martha's Vineyard.  It gets packed in July and August - so plan accordingly because I booked our hotel in Jan and had a really hard time finding anything and all the rental cars were already sold out.  The main town is called Visby and if you can,  rent a car as I heard that the really beautiful parts are on the other side of the island.  But the town of Visby is an adorable medieval town with tons of bars and restaurants and open air churches.  We were there during the World Cup and we got to watch the game with all the locals in the middle of town next to an open air church, it was pretty cool. 

The weekend we were there was also their politicians weekend, which explained why it was so crowded.   All the politicians come to the island and make speeches and campaign while Swedes come and listen to what they have to say.  While most locals we talked to in Stockholm thought it would be a boring weekend, I found it to be a fascinating insight into their local ways of thinking. 

But as a result of all of this, every restaurant was jammed packed.  We had just arrived and were starving, so we ended up at this cute place that seemed to have the shortest line.  While most people on the island speak perfectly fine English, it's not as common as Stockholm but it's still super easy to get around.  The owner here kept saying my name was Johnnie and in the end I just gave up and said close enough. 

The menu here is all forms of crepes - sweet and savory.  I got the smoked salmon, horseradish cream, baby spinach and cheese.  It came on a buckwheat crepe and it was pretty tasty.  I honestly find crepes to be a totally fine but kind of boring in general and this one was no different.  It did hit the spot because we were staving and they also have a nice line up of ciders that I recommend.  I wouldn't necessarily say this is a must-go destination but it was a lovely enough establishment that if you find yourself on Gotland for the whole week, is definitely worth a try.  Total bill: $34/pp with tax and tip 

Italienaren Hästgatan 2, 621 56 Visby, Sweden                                                                         4 Forks

For such a tiny island, there are tons of restaurants in Gotland.  There's a pretty decent variety of different types of cuisine which was refreshing.  Despite all the pretty good food we had had so far, I was ready for something that wasn't super farm-to-table.  We saw a place that looked like good 'ole fashion Italian food and I was down with that.  Plus they had seating outside so that we could people watching which was fun. 

The menu here is your usual run of Italian food - antipasti, pizzas, pastas and a few secondi dishes.  I went with a bresaola carpaccio that came with blue cheese and arugula.  It was a pretty good starter and it felt nice and light, despite it having blue cheese on there.  For my main, I had linguine with clams - the pasta was cooked pretty well and there were a good number of clams to it.  My only complaint was that it was a bit oily but overall I enjoyed the experience there.  Sure, it's not authentic cuisine that you would find in Italy but hey, we are in Sweden after all. 

The other fun fact about this place is that it's right next door to this pretty fun bar called Vinegar, which I also highly recommend.  It's got this lively outdoor bar feel only it has a retractable roof to keep the noise in.  The clientele is a bit bougie but it was fun people watching none the less.  I believe they also have food there but it's more fun to sit at the bar and have cocktails instead.   After hitting up these two spots, I can see why people come to this island to chill out and get away from the main city - luckily they don't have to give up on good food while they are here.  Total bill:  $60 USD with tax, tip and 2 drinks

1 Week in Sweden - Part 1 - Visited 6/30/2018 - 7/8/2018 4 - 4.5 Forks

Rolf Kok Tegnérgatan 41, 111 61 Stockholm, Sweden                                                                4 Forks

After 2 weeks in Amsterdam for work, I jetted off to Sweden for a vacation I had planned before I took this new job.  While it sounds super glamorous and I'm not complaining at all, it was a bit tiring being away from home for that amount of time.  But luckily Sweden is such a lovely place that it made it pretty easy to relax.  I had been wanting to check out Sweden ever since I went to Denmark and Norway a few years ago and absolutely fell in love with Scandinavian culture and life. 

While it doesn't quite have the same culinary reputation as Denmark, Swedish food was quite surprising.  Almost every meal I had was pretty good and despite it being famous for Swedish meatballs, it was a very veggie friendly place to travel to as well.

Our first stop was to stay in Stockholm for 4 days, which is plenty of time.  Stockholm isn't a huge city and honestly most people leave the city during July, so it was pretty quiet.  One place that had gotten tons of good reviews was this Rolf Kok - which translates to Rolf's Kitchen.  While I can't say I know exactly what Swedish food is, the menu gave off a very Scandinavian vibe.   Lav and I split the kale salad and I got the braised ox cheeks (265 SEK = $29.57 USD).   Maybe it was something lost in translation but the kale was really much more like a lettuce based salad but none the less, it was a fine salad.  The ox cheeks were braised in red wine came with really buttery mashed potatoes - what's not to love?  The cheeks were perfectly moist and tender to the touch.   My only complaint would be that the dish is quite heavy.  For dessert we got the strawberries/champagne dessert with ice cream and a chocolate pudding (65 SEK) - both excellent but I preferred the refreshing strawberries one. 

This was a very pleasant intro to food in Sweden and price-wise, it was pretty on point with what to expect.  Sweden is not a cheap place to vacation at all, so don't be surprised when almost every meal runs you between $70+ per person.  Total bill here:  684 SEK ($76 USD)/pp with tax and tip

Photo Credit: Yelp

Rosendals Tradgard  Rosendalsterrassen 12, 115 21 Stockholm, Sweden                                4.5 Forks

I know the term Farm to Table concept is so cliched and overly used but the food here is literally straight from the farm you're sitting in to your plate.  Ok, it's not really a farm, it's a greenhouse but all the veggie and ingredients are grown onsite so you know it's fresh and delicious. 

The place is a bit of a hike to get to - you have to go to through the park and then it's still a bit of a walk to get there but on a sunny day, it is 100% worth it.  The grounds are gorgeous and even if you don't want to eat the food here (not sure why you wouldn't), you can bring a picnic and lay out in the back.  

To be clear this isn't a restaurant but more like a cafe.  You wait in line in one of the greenhouses and you pick up a tray.  There are a bunch of fresh bread products and pastries in the line while you wait to get up to the counter and when you get up there, the menu is pretty limiting, but I found it to be super worth it.  I got the roasted chicken with swiss char and roasted carrots and a cinnamon roll with rose sea salt.   It's a hipster's dream. 

The food was fantastic - super fresh and even though I'm not a fan of carrots, these were incredible.  It was such a simple meal done right.  Of course, you can't come to Sweden without having a cinnamon roll and the rose salt here was a nice touch to it.  Unlike the sticky sweet buns in the US, the ones in Scandinavia are more focused on the bread with a hint of cinnamon (with no glaze).   As with any meal in Sweden,  it was a bit expensive for the amount of food, but honestly I was not bothered by it since I really thought the quality was excellent.  A must visit when you are in Stockholm.  Total bill:  $25/pp with tax and tip

Nygoret 6 116 40 Stockholm, Sweden                                                                                          4 Forks

Every article you read about Stockhom, it'll mention how the neighborhood of Sodermalm is the super hipster section of the city and it's often compared to Brooklyn.  Honestly, I don't see it or get it.  Maybe it's because we went on a Sunday and many places were closed, so it didn't really seem to have this lively feel to it but I was underwhelmed by it.  I've clearly lived in Williamsburg for too long because nothing feels as hipster as the 'Burg or Bushwick to me. 

I will say that the area did seem to have a lot of cute restaurants/cafes/bars so maybe that is where the comparison is.  I had wanted to try to Meatballs for the People but it was closed for summer vacation, so we ended up here with no reservation.  They were pretty accommodating - at first we sat outside but then it ended up being kind of chilly, so they moved us inside with no complaints.

The menu is a quite eclectic - it's got mini tacos, seared tuna, meatballs, pastas and rotisserie meats all on the same menu but yet somehow it works and everything sounded really tasty.  I started with a rhubarb negroni drink which was excellent and a nice twist on a classic.  Since everything sounded great, we split the fried halloumi burger (195 SEK) and I got the sliced steak appetizer (115 SEK), while Lav got a pasta dish (105 SEK).  The steak appetizer was delicious.  It was thinly sliced, perfectly medium rare and served with red wine vinegar sauce and topped with one of my favorite mushrooms, enoki mushrooms.   Since it was a appetizer, it was on the small side but I would have gladly gotten an entree size if they made it.  The halloumi burger was also pretty good - it was a panko crusted fried piece of halloumi cheese with avocado, harissa mayo and served on a really buttery bun.  I'm glad we split it because it was a pretty hearty "burger" on its own.  The fries that it came with were extra cripsy and divine. 

Overall, it seemed like a really nice local joint that I could see myself going to often if I lived in the area.  Total bill:  $105 USD for two people with tax and tip